Thursday, 1 October 2026

Italy: Via Francigena

The Via Francigena is a long distance pilgrimage, from Canterbury to Rome, with similarities to the Camino, but much less known and with far fewer people. Paulien retired in the spring and to manage her transition from a very busy working life to her pension she decided to walk the whole 4 month route in one go. She had been actively looking for walking partners, who could accompany her for a couple of days. Mary signed up for 4 days, for the stretch from the foothills of the Alps into the Po valley.

The Via Francigena follows an ancient route, based on the travels of archbishop Sigeric of Canterbury around 990. Every day a distance between 15 and 30 km is covered, mainly dependent on availability of accommodation. Accommodation is generally in hostels, in dormitories with shared bathrooms. As a luxury a simple hotel or B&B can also be booked. After sending them off Mary and Paulien hiked together to Ivrea, Viverone, Santhia and Vercelli, chatting, finding their way, and looking for water, food and coffee. As Mary didn't know Paulien very well beforehand there was lot's to talk about! Meeting a few pilgrims on the route and in the accommodation added further spice to the trip. In short: very enjoyable! And Paulien, who started early July, still had 6 weeks to go when Mary left her with the next friend. Mary returned by train and bus to Grenoble, where she was picked up by Piet and Pippin, and we spend the last few days together at our house.


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