Tuesday, 29 September 2026

Italy: Bormio

Piet has a short bucketlist, with only a few wishes. One of these was a trip to Bormio, to cycle up the mythical Stelvio and Gavia cols, well known from the Giro d'Italia. This year was a perfect storm to tick these off: firstly Mary planned to join Paulien for a few days on the Via Francigena in northwestern Italy (see next post), and secondly Piet had trained a lot for L'Etape du Tour, and was in his best physical shape since years. 

We booked a one room apartment in Bormio, a small, pleasant town in the centre of an active outdoor holiday area, with an excellent cycling infrastructure, and many wintersport facilities. It is a great location for hikes and bike rides, and the start for the long climbs up to the Stelvio and Gavia passes. It took 7 hours to drive down from our house in France. 

The first day we did a short hike near our apartment, and after lunch Piet cycled up to Passo dello Stelvio. Unfortunately it was a Sunday, and very nice weather, so Piet had to share the road with hundreds and hundreds of motorbikes and many tourists in cars. At the top (2758 m!) it was a real circus, with souvenir shops, parking areas, hotels, restaurants and a huge skilift. The descent was not a lot of fun either, with motorbikes whizzing around him, and several dangerous tunnels. Mary cycled up part of the col, and turned around at the first tunnel.

The next day we hiked around Bormio, and in the afternoon we cycled together to the Torre di Fraele, a spectacular, quiet road, with many, many hairpins. The following morning Piet left early for the Passo di Gavia, with the plan to do a loop including the Passo del Mortirolo. The road to Passo di Gavia was quiet and scenic, and at the pass there was just a parking and a small restaurant. After a short stop Piet descended the other way, ending up in the Oglio valley. Here the climb to Passo del Mortirolo started, a another famous (and steep) Giro d'Italia col. From there Piet descended back to the Bormio valley, and slowly climbed back to the apartment, completing 110 km and 3000 m of height difference. And adding two ticks on his bucketlist! Mary and Pippin had a more leisurely day, with another nice hike near Bormio.

The final day we drove back up to the Gavia, to do a beautiful hike high in the mountains, with very few people around. The next morning we packed everything and drove a few hours west to Pont St Martin (very Italian, despite the French name), north of Turin. Here we met Paulien, a friend of ours who was walking the Via Francigena.

View from our apartment, just outside Bormio

A sign on the road to Passo dello Stelvio

View over Bormio from one of our hikes

In the town of Bormio

The many hairpins on the road to Torri di Fraele

Mary arriving at Torri di Fraele

First col of the day, Piet still in good spirits

Finished the second (and steep) climb of the day

Hiking near Passo di Gavia

Pippin the mountain dog, near the Gavia

Lunch in the mountains, close to the Gavia

Monday, 28 September 2026

France (2026 - IV)

In September we returned to France for a few weeks, with a trip to Italy in the middle (see the next two posts). The summer weather was still in full swing, and despite shorter days and cooler mornings we spend all of our time outside.

On our drive down we had an overnight stay near Bar sur Seine, and did a nice walk along the Seine river, which is only a shallow stream in this part of France. After a dinner in the garden of the hotel and a good nights sleep we drove down to our house. We had a short week of cycling, hiking and some work in the garden before leaving for Italy. Unfortunately wild boars had dug up part of our field in front of the house, searching for roots. They have become a real nuisance in the valley, probably due to the absence of rain since May, and the lack of food in the woods. This is part of living in the countryside!

After returning from the trip to Italy we had another short week of summer weather, living outside and leaving the inside jobs for future rainy days. We returned to The Hague, and have planned a last trip back to France in October, before the winter season starts.

Pippin is cooling down in the Seine

A tunnel on the old road to Villard Reymond

With John on Col Agnel, the highest mountain pass in the region

View from Col Agnel towards Italy

Mary on Col d'Ornon, on the only cloudy day

Hiking near Vizille, with the Vercors in the background

Cows are enjoying life near Vaujany

The hiking trail between Vaujany and Enversin