On Monday morning Mary drove home from Troyes, and Piet joined his friends returning south, to taste and buy some wine, restocking our cellars. The traditional yearly trip was returning to the Burgundy and Rhone regions, targeting several new wineries. As usual a small van was rented, and when happily cruising along near Dijon suddenly there was no traction anymore, and we had to stop on the side of the highway. Initially we thought it might be lack of diesel, and help was called. Firstly, the van was towed away to a nearby garage in the wine village of Chevrey-Chambertin, were the problem was checked. It quickly became clear this had nothing to do with diesel, and after some time the owner told us that one of the engine belts had broken, and the van couldn't go any further. We called the insurance, and cancelled our tasting appointments and hotel for the day. There was initial mistrust, as we had mentioned lack of diesel to the rental company, so it took some time to sort out alternative transport. In the meantime we took a train back north to Dijon, found a hotel and a good restaurant, whilst waiting on news. Finally the insurance offered us two cars, as they couldn't arrange another van at short notice.
The next morning Paul decided to return home, as his mother had some health issues, and he took one of the cars. The rest of us drove south with the second car, compressing our original program in two days. Firstly, the car had limited space, so we had to buy with the handbreak on, and secondly we had a lot of driving ahead of us.
The first stop was at Domaine de la Mordoree, that produces Lirac and Chateauneuf-du-Pape red wines, and rose from Tavel. A good tasting was followed by a moderate purchase, and a short drive to Beaumes-de-Venise, where we made a chance visit to Domaine des Bernadins. They make red, white and sweet wines from this appellation. The next stop was at the Caveau in Gigondas, a place visited many times before. Here most wine makers of the village have their products available for tasting and sale, and there is a rich choice. To stay sane we selected some old favourites, and lastly asked the host to surprise us: this resulted in two excellent Gigondas wines (which happened to be two of the most expensive bottles for sale!). The night was spend in beautiful Vaison-la-Romaine, staying in a boutique hotel, and with dinner overlooking the town. Maybe better suited for a romantic weekend with partners, but still very enjoyable!
In the morning we returned north, and visited Domaine Durand, in the small appellation of Cornas, near Valence. Here prices have gone through the roof the last few years, but Durand's wines are still affordable, and of quality. More driving followed, to Chassagne-Montrachet, for an appointment with Heritiers Saint-Genys. On arrival we managed to find someone with some difficulty, who first pretended that the appointment was two days earlier, and then wasn't interested for an ad hoc tasting. Luckily we had another address, some 30 km further north, where we were received with open arms: Manuel Olivier, in Nuits Saint-Georges. After a short tour of the premises our host literally opened everything for tasting, up to a bottle of Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru; great, but way too expensive for us. This was followed by a last stretch of driving, to Chablis, for our final night. Dinner was in Les Trois Bourgeons, an interesting experience, with a young waiter who barely spoke French, and a Japanese chef who combined cooking great food, taking reservations and accepting payments all by himself.
Our last stop was at Sebastien Dampt, in Chablis. After we ended up at his private residence it took some effort to unearth an old email with the correct address, where we had an early morning taste of excellent white wines, topping off our breakfast. From there it was a straight drive back to Utrecht, where the bottles were sorted, and Piet was picked up by Mary with his harvest. The next step is a re-tasting, and critical comparison between the different wines. And enjoying them!
With our dead van at the garage in Gevrey-Chambertin
Discussing Lirac at Mordoree
The selection of Domaine de la Mordoree
Frits is checking the purchase at Caveau du Gigondas
Explanations at Manuel Olivier
Sybren and Oscar are tasting great Burgundy wine at Manuel Olivier
Breakfast tasting at Sebastien Dampt, in Chablis
